I first met Madelon a few years back at the Ranis Garden Art
Show. We were both exhibiting our
art at the show, and connected when we realized that we had both lived and
studied art in New York City, plus we shared a passion for India. It seems that our lives have again
taken a similar turn- we both met our partners on a trip to India, had a baby
and moved overseas to start a family, she in France and me in England.
Madelon has returned to India every year since Clovis was
born in 2007. I wanted to know
more about her experiences traveling with him in India, and hopefully pass on
some tips for parents thinking of travel with their children.
©Madelon Galland
R: You have
been to India three times with Clovis.
What were the challenges at the different ages? Does it get easier as he gets older?
M: When Clovis
was five months it was the easiest, as he was breastfed entirely. We enjoyed
our favorite Indian foods in restaurants and often the waiters would carry him around
so we could eat. He loved the Ergo carrier and was a happy open baby, enjoying
the new attention and invitations to be held by people we met and got a good
feeling from. I remember being concerned with people wanting to give him candy
(he hadn’t even started on solid foods, I would explain). It is so remarkably
different than the West! Clovis
drew smiles and funny faces and affectionate cheek touches everywhere we went.
If you don’t want people touching your kid, don’t go to India. People of all ages love children there
and regard them as little gods.
©Madelon Galland
Mosquitoes were a big concern so I traveled with a baby tent
that had an air mattress zipped into the bottom and mesh panels that zipped
closed so he could nap safely protected from insects and he couldn’t roll out
of ‘bed’.
©Madelon Galland
Also I was very concerned about flying with a “lap child”
for such a long journey. But we
were able to get a basinet on the flight so he could sleep horizontally and I
could have room to have the tray for meals. Breast-feeding during take off and landing resolved air
pressure fluctuations and he traveled like a champ.
Breast-feeding in India was also a concern, but with the
salwar kameez and dupata
(contemporary Indian attire for women with kurta, trowsers and shawl) it
was very easy to be totally discreet.
©Madelon Galland
At 18 months he was a bit independent and wanted to run
around more than I did. We traveled with a collapsible stroller just to have
more control over his whereabouts especially in airports. This was a bit
cumbersome and we really didn’t use it during the trip, but we were grateful to
have it for the long airport waits and transfers. We continued to use the Egro
carrier or let him walk.
Now that he was eating solids it was much trickier to enjoy
meals and keep him seated.
My concern was that he might put anything in his mouth, or be scooped
away by an adoring fan. But from an early age our refrain has been ‘pas la
bouche’ (not in the mouth) and he was really good about heeding that advise,
luckily.
The Indians always invite, “come”, “come” to children and
once I had turned my back and turned to discover he was following a woman
home…so I just joined them, and talked to him about it. In the West it is taboo to talk to strangers
or take candy from a stranger etc, but that mindset is not relevant to India
for the most part. To enjoy India
from the get go I had to learn to identify what was my cultural conditioning
and see how it was ruining my experience and drop it! “When in Rome, do as the
Romans do”, my grandmother used to say …but not until India did I finally grow
to respect its relevance.
We rented a place with a kitchen so that I could cook fresh
foods that Clovis would eat. The
beautiful thing is that a vegetable cart came to our door twice a day. I wash, peel, and or cook
everything. As he was still
breastfeeding, I knew that he was getting nutrients and immunities from my milk
as well.
©Madelon Galland
He had outgrown the little tent and so I kept repellant on
him and we used a plug in mosquito repellant. We also stayed indoors during the
morning and evening hours when the mosquitoes are worst.
When we traveled with Clovis when he was 2 ½ years old, my
concerns were still mosquitoes, food, and just keeping track of him now that he
can run and is more willful. Finding other children to play with became my
objective. When we were in the tourist places like Goa, there were enough
options like pasta, pancakes and omelets on the menu to keep Clovis happy. He
will not sit for a full meal, so finding a restaurant with space for children
to play was a consideration. When we went north, having a kitchen made life
easier again in being able to make foods he would like.
He wanted to be carried more often on our shoulders during
this trip, I think it was a safe distance from the cheek pinchers and a good
vantage point as well… but a bit back breaking as we are feeling our age (and
watch out for all those ceiling fans!).
We returned to the same guesthouse where he had begun to
establish friends with the neighbors the year before. Now he had a play group
every afternoon when the children would return from school, this was fabulous,
he LOVES children! It was beautiful to see him play, because where we live in
France, there are no children.
©Madelon Galland
R: How did you
get around? Have you taken any
long train journeys? Can you offer
any advice about getting from place to place with a child?
M: We took rickshaws, busses, taxis, planes, and trains.
Luckily he loves transport so he does pretty well as long as there are
wheels. From Pune to Goa we took a
sleeper bus. It was my first time on one of those and it was a bit bumpy but
peaceful and comfortable. For the
long hauls, sleeping is best! On airplanes I often do laps with Clovis up and
down the aisles to deal with his restlessness. In India, to go from the south to the north, we opted for
low cost air tickets, bringing the travel time from 2 days to more like 2
hours. I discovered I could book my own train and plane tickets on my visa card
on www.cleartrip.com that was an amazing improvement from previous years.
©Madelon Galland
Check back for the second half of this interview...coming soon!